Climbing all the Rocks - Sigiriya

Sunday, April 14

What a day!
We woke up at 6 am (though I honestly didn't sleep much because I kept thinking we were late) and were ready for our prearranged tuk tuk at 6:30 as planned.  Of course he was late and we didn't leave until 7.

Though we did a bit of research, hence knowing where we wanted to go, it was very minimal, and we had no idea how long it would take to get there.  Our plan was to go to Sigiriya and climb both rocks. What exactly that meant we had no clue, but I'll get to that. First, the way there.

We started off in a new direction and what seemed to just be town or village after town, with only maybe a hundred meters of field in between.

I think I mentioned that yesterday and today were the Tamil and Sinhalese New Year, and we got more of a feel for that today. According to our host, some people celebrate both days, some celebrated just today, and others celebrate longer. It's a bit unclear where all the differences come from.

For our host herself, today was the only day of holiday. As she explained it, at least according to how she celebrates, they fast starting in the morning and it sounds like shabbat that they can't do any work.  There are rules about not lighting fire or cooking etc. She also mentioned something about being in charge of making a big breakfast for twelve people (she went out to buy what she said were her first ever new clothes last night for the occasion - she said something about the colors red and yellow? and she got new shoes). Anyway the fast ends around 3:40 (so they pretty much just skip lunch?) at which point kids do their homework if they have any and then they have another big meal.  We don't know much about the meals but it looks like lots of cookies and cakes (that look like traditional Christmas fruit cakes).  They compare the holiday to Christmas but we don't know why.

Anyway, back to our day, during our ride it was quite apparent that it was a holiday. Everyone walking in the streets were dressed their best, many in white.  Most stores and shops were closed. Best of all, there wasn't much traffic! Though it would've been cool to try to join celebrations, it definitely was a huge plus to drive without traffic.  We saw people entering temples, and a lot going to smaller Buddha statues by the sides of the roads to pray.

Closed shops

We stopped a few times, we weren't quite sure why, and then stopped at a Hindu Temple. We didn't get what was happening but just went with it. We left our shoes and socks in the car and ended up at a ticket counter for foreigners. We still weren't quite sure what was happening but it was totally worth it. We went inside and there was a drummer and horn player filling the place with music. Everything was decorated with bold, beautiful colors. We saw people praying in all sorts of ways - bowing, lighting candles, walking around a tree and more. None of them cared that we took pictures and they all smiled when we said happy holiday.

When we continued, the driver stopped at a spice garden, but we told the person there and our driver that we'd really rather just continue, as we really wanted to get to Sigiriya.  Our ideal had been to get there as early as possible as we'd heard that it's crazy hot.

We continued and passed Dambulla which our driver just pointed to (good thing. It's supposed to be a really interesting site but we thought it would interest us a bit less but were worried our driver was taking us there) and made it to Sigiriya!

All in all it took about 3.5 hours.

But the confusion didn't end there. We arrived and parked and went to find a bathroom, which was in a sort of visitors' center where you buy tickets. Our driver, though, told us not to go and we went back outside and he tried to convince us to go with another driver to take us around Sigiriya which apparently would be cheaper 3000 rupees per person. We didn't understand though so we went back inside where we learned that it cost 5000 rupees per person (though at the local ticket counter it cost 50 rupees. It costs tourists 100x more!)

Anyway we went back outside but then realized they were offering to take us around the park, not in it.  I'm still not sure what that meant but we opted out and went and paid the absurd price (which turned out to be even a little more) (oh, also turns out its cash only despite being so expensive so we had to go back out and to another building where thankfully there was an atm and then come back).

We were finally on our way.  It was hot, but not as bad as we'd anticipated. The site we were at was ruins from a palace, so we wandered around a few places (we didn't have a guide so we don't know so much about what we were seeing to be honest).
Our driver seemed confused as to why we weren't just going straight up the rock but he went with it.  Also we finally learned his name, Niroshan (near-ocean).

View of the grounds from above

We started the climb and realized Niroshan really wasn't expecting it.  He didn't even have water with him so we shared some of ours, and he was shocked he was so sweaty! (from our observations Sri Lankan people don't seem to sweat) He was also in new clothes that he bought for the Sri Lankan new year and kept brushing them off and worrying they were getting dirty.

On the way up there were tons of monkeys. We saw one steal someone's waterbottle and others try to steal it from him.  Another tried to steal a guys bag but the guy grabbed it back just in time!

There were also all these signs about wasps and we saw huge wasp nests but thankfully they were way up in trees and it didn't seem to be a real issue.

There were a few stops on the way up. Some caves with an inscription that we couldn't find, and then a cave with traditional paintings (which you had to climb up extra steps for but didn't know until you got there what was happening. You just climb because it's on the way, see the paintings and then realize you have to go back down. But it's mandatory) There was a mirror wall that was maybe a little shiny from a certain angle and had what looked like people's names carved? We didn't get it.

Then we got to a big open area, kind of a plateau where there was a first aid team, drinking water (thank goodness, we were almost out) and some shade to sit in.  This seemed to be the real start of the Lion's Rock.  There were two huge carved feet and after a bit of a break we started climbing MORE steps.

It was short but torture. But worth it.  As soon as we got up we went to one of the few shady spots to cool down.  Then we started to wander.  At the top were ruins of the temple and great views.  It was layer upon layer. We wandered around most of it (warning: there are steps everywhere) and took tons of pictures.  After taking a picture with Niroshan some strangers asked to take a picture with us too... this is not the first time strangers asked Meir for a picture this trip.  After one guy asked if Meir would take a picture with his parents, Meir was a smart guy and asked why. His answer was 'because you're a foreigner and they want to take a picture with a foreigner. Meir asked how he knew he was a foreigner, and the guy chuckled and said because you have different colored skin than me.

We made it!

Us with Niroshan

The walk down was uneventful and not so bad.

At the bottom we decided to finally have some local food, as we were starving! Meir and Niroshan went to choose food from the cafe and brought back all these pastries.

There were fish roll ups and veggie samosas, all delicious but very spicy.  A few dogs came over and Niroshan started feeding them, and then a monkey ran over and stole our donut! Thankfully I'd had two bites but Meir didn't get any.

We told Niroshan that we wanted to go to Pidurangala Rock next and I think he thought we were joking. He said there was no time and we didn't get why until we realized he thought we were supposed to be back at 4 for some reason. We don't know why he thought that but our plan had been to climb for sunset. We didn't mind climbing earlier but we had to speak with someone  (we think it was his boss?) to explain that we wanted to stay longer.

Finally decided we went back to the tuk tuk (not entirely sure he understood he was taking us to the next rock) and he started driving into the park and we didn't get why he didn't do that to begin with instead of trying to get us to go with another tuk tuk driver.

Anyway he drove us through and to a temple. We knew he'd already climbed the rock since he'd shown us pictures earlier in the day, so we told him he could just wait if he wanted, and he asked if it's okay if he takes one ride and then comes back to get us which sounded fine.

First thing you have to do is take off your shoes and cover up to walk through the temple. I'm not sure why they don't put a way around.  This one cost 500 rupees per person, way more reasonable.

On our way through I almost stepped on a snake! I thought it was just a stick, thin and green and then it moved and had a tongue! I have no clue what type of snake it was and whether or not it was dangerous.

You get through in less than a minute and take off the modest coverings, put on shoes and start up. It was so many steps. We took a break and read the small brochure they gave us, which talked about how this hike has two sections. You get to the largest Buddha made of bricks and from there you need a guide because it's incredibly dangerous and difficult.

Well not long after that we got to the Buddha which itself was cool and decided we'd continue and worst case turn back.
Honestly, compared to hikes we've done in the past, it was nothing. You scramble up a few boulders, squeeze between two and you're there.  And wow was it worth it. You see Lion's Rock from there, which is gorgeous from afar. There are also cacti up there and we found a small shady area for a rest. All in all it probably only took about an hour and a half.

Us with Lion's Rock in the background

When we got back down Niroshan was there waiting for us, and it was a relief sitting down.  Climbing to rocks in one day was a lot but so worth it.  It was also exhausting. I could barely keep my eyes open on the way back.  At some point it started raining which we enjoyed for a bit but then decided to close the flaps on the sides of the tuk tuk to stay dry.  Niroshan asked again if we wanted to go to the tea factory and we said no way.

We continued and thought we knew where we were until suddenly we definitely didn't. We were at the Lodge Inn, but not the one we were staying at.  We didn't know what was going on and some guy came and asked if we had a good day, then we left. The only thing I could think was that it was his manager making sure he'd done a good job.
We finally made it back to the house and it was quiet, so we ate a small dinner, packed up and went to sleep, knowing we had another early morning ahead.